Positano…a beautiful little corner on the west coast of Italy, tucked into the mountains with cliffside views of the blue-green Tyrrhenian Sea. Picture gelato and lemon sorbet around every turn, seafood and pasta to your heart’s desire, and colorful Vespas zipping through the streets.
AKA, perfection.
The Amalfi Coast (and Italy in general) have been high on my bucket list for years. And with a little convincing, my mom agreed to come with me for a mother-daughter trip! This trip was so special because we hadn’t been on a trip together, just the two of us, since the very beginning of the pandemic (we went to Costa Rica literally a month before the world shut down!) so I was VERY excited to not only be traveling with her, but also to one of my dream destinations.
• WHERE TO STAY •
I will be honest though; this trip was not an easy one to plan, for a few reasons.
First, I enjoy reading other blog posts to help me plan my trips. And it was a little disheartening to see some of the recommendations, because, well…they were pricey! Everyone said “Stay at Le Sirenuse or Hotel Poseidon!” which were both over $1,000 USD a night. Everyone said “Eat at this restaurant so you can get your picture on their balcony!” but none of them had available reservations, were very expensive, or didn’t have anything on the menu we would like (picky eaters). And as a blogger, you feel the pressure to make sure everything is “aesthetically pleasing” and only go to the “picture-perfect” spots. I was beginning to think maybe Positano was a mistake; my main goal as a blogger has ALWAYS been to prove to people that I, a regular middle-class citizen living in the midwestern part of the USA, can not only travel to incredible places but also do it on an affordable scale. There was no way I could recommend these things to my readers, when I myself didn’t want to spend that kind of money! And no offense to the people that do, because TRUST me, I would have LOVED to stay in one of these 5-star hotels and eaten at a Michelin-star restaurant, and maybe someday I will. But not right now. I’m not paying over 100 euro for one person to eat just so I can get a cute picture!
But I was determined. Not only would we go to Positano and experience the magic of the Amalfi Coast, but we would do it affordably, without missing out on any experiences. And I’m proud to say, that my hours of research paid off, because we had an incredible trip!
For starters, we stayed at Casa Lucibello. I was incredibly impressed by this little apartment! Not only was it very spacious and had a terrace with a view, but the price was fantastic as well. It cost us about $960 for 5 nights total, so less than $100 a night per person! It was a bit of a walk from our apartment down to the beach/city area, but if you’re in decent shape it is no issue. There is a shortcut that has more stairs if you don’t want to walk alongside the road, just type “Spiaggia Grande” into your maps to find it, or keep an eye out for a sign next to a little bitty grocery store! Other places that I considered staying at were Gema Suites, Alcione Residence, and Casa Guadagno, which I’ve definitely saved for next time.
• HOW TO GET THERE •
The next big issue with Positano is the matter of actually getting there. Being a tiny town along the very popular Amalfi Coast, it is not particularly easy to get to. Plus, I knew while booking our trip that I wanted to also spend a few days in Rome. I compared LOTS of different methods; flying into Naples (closer to Positano) and then flying out of Rome, flying into Rome and then taking trains and a taxi OR trains and a ferry, private shuttles, taking a bus from Rome, you name it! I weighed all the options. I really wanted something that was not only not going to hurt my wallet, but also the easiest; the more steps there are, the more room there is for mistakes. I wanted something simple!
But then I stumbled upon bookaway.com, and it was exactly what I was looking for! They offer shared shuttles from the airports and train station in Rome directly to your accommodation in Positano and it was PERFECT. They picked us up a few hours after our plane landed, and we were on our way! We did have some trouble finding our driver at first (my phone was messing up and wouldn’t let me answer their calls) and they did have to pull over once because they were afraid the van was overheating, but otherwise we had no issues. There were only 2 other people in the van both ways, so we had plenty of room to stretch out a bit and nap during the 4-hour ride. Mom and I both agreed this was the easiest way to get from Rome to Positano, but if prices work out in your favor and you have no interest in visiting other areas of Italy, Naples is a much closer airport to fly in to and then you could just get a taxi.
• WHAT TO DO •
As for what to do in Positano, there is something for everybody! Experiences are one thing I will ALWAYS be willing to pay for, because I want to see as much as I can.
I had promised my mom at least 2 days of relaxing, so we spent that time lounging on the beach at Spiaggia Grande. Beach chairs are about 20-25 euros per person, and you get them for the full day; if you get up to eat lunch or go back to the room, just make sure to at least leave your towel there to mark your seat! I also recommend getting here before 9-9:30 in the morning, as the beach will be nearly empty. You’ll be able to not only snag the best seats, but also snap a few pics without a ton of people in them! On our way down both mornings we stopped for coffee and croissants and had such a peaceful breakfast while listening to the waves, it was absolute perfection.
The beach has several restaurants behind it, but if you don’t want to get up, your umbrella table will have a card with a QR code if you would rather order on your phone and have them bring it to you. We sipped on strawberry daiquiris and devoured margherita pizzas all day without even leaving our seats! The beach is also mainly sand with pebbles/rocks along the water. It didn’t bother me but if you are a beach walker, it might be a good idea to wear sandals or water shoes. I also enjoyed hunting for sea glass!
There is also a smaller, less busy beach called Fornillo Beach. If you are facing the water, it is around the cliffs/buildings on the right. Just follow the path behind the water taxi/boating stands and you’ll find it! Though we didn’t lounge here, we did visit it.
Speaking of boats, we spent the day on one and it was my FAVORITE thing we did during the whole trip. If you’re interested in this, I definitely suggest booking it ahead of time and also planning it towards the beginning of your trip. We were supposed to do it on our second full day, but the water was too rough and we were thankfully able to reschedule it for two days later. I’m so glad we did because it was a blast! We went under the Faraglioni Rocks, wandered around Capri eating lemon sorbet, jumped off the boat and swam in the crystal-clear water, and saw the White Grotto, Green Grotto, and my personal favorite…the Blue Grotto!
Please, please, please don’t listen to anyone who tells you it isn’t worth it. They are probably a boring person, haha! This was definitely one of the coolest things I have ever seen. The tour guide gave everyone the option: you can either spend 4 hours in Capri and not see the Grotto, or see the Grotto and only get 2 hours in Capri. It was not an all or nothing thing either, so don’t feel pressured! They reserved our spot in line at the Blue Grotto, took those who didn’t want to see it to the pier on Capri, then we went back and lounged in the sun on the boat for about an hour or so while we waited. Once it was our turn, they loaded 4 of us into a row boat at a time to see it! It was 14 euro per person, and like I said, SO worth it. The rower will take you to the mouth of the cave, then time it juuust right so that when the water surges down before a wave, you lay on your back while he grabs a chain and pulls you inside the Grotto.
When you sit back up, you will be amazed; it is incredible to think how our planet has created some of these natural places that just take your breath away! The way the water glows blue from the sunlight shining in is so…captivating, I can’t think of any other way to describe it. Just please take my advice and see it if you’re able! Pictures don’t do it justice!
The last activity we did actually wasn’t on the Amalfi Coast, but is worth a visit: we went to Pompeii! It is about an hour from Positano, and I booked a guided tour that picked us up and dropped us back off. It was truly so interesting but also eerie to wander the streets and learn about the history of this city and the horrors that happened, all while seeing Mt. Vesuvius (which, by the way, is still considered very active and very dangerous!) looming in the distance. *Trigger warning: Pictures of bodies below!*
If you want to see bodies, go to the museum next to it. These bodies were created by finding “cavities” in the ash, which were places in which a person had died and decayed, basically leaving behind a “mold” of their body and their bones. They filled them with plaster to preserve the shape of the cavity. We were told that these people were essentially “petrified” by heat, gas, lava, and ash, and almost immediately went into rigor mortis as they died, freezing them in that position. In these plaster casts, you can still see their skulls, teeth, and facial expressions…many appearing to be in terrible, terrible pain. It was heartbreaking to see these casts, especially the ones of children. If you’re into history, it is worth spending a day to see! Make sure to wear sunscreen, drink plenty of water, and wear a hat and sunglasses.
There are lots of other activities to do on the Amalfi Coast as well if none of this interests you. There are high-end retail stores to do some shopping, cooking classes, pottery classes, and more. Next time I visit, I also want to do the Path of the Gods hike! It has stunning views from what I’ve heard!
• WHERE TO EAT •
Alas, I never did score reservations at any restaurants. However, we DID discover if you get to them before 6pm, you’re likely to get a table without one! We ate at Chez Black, Buca di Bacco, and Lo Guarracino and had pizza on the beach from La Zagara one night. We also might have skipped dinner once in favor of some gelato, haha! Please keep in mind that most restaurants have a cover charge to eat there, so you might remember to ask how much it is before you sit down.
Chez Black: One of the most famous restaurants in Positano, it is tastefully decorated to look like a classy yacht inside. There is a wall decorated with photographs of celebrities who have visited, so you know it’s good! I had the tomato and mozzarella gnocchi and it was delicious. This was probably our most expensive meal.
Buca di Bacco: We got lucky and got a seat with a view of all the buildings along the cliff. Definitely get an aperol spritz (a popular drink in Europe). It was the best one I had during our trip! They also serve breakfast here.
Lo Guarracino: I’m actually very glad we stumbled upon this place. We had sat down at another restaurant, and after 15 minutes we still hadn’t been waited on so we left (I don’t want to call them out because it’s the same restaurant that does food/drinks on the beach during the day and we had great service then, so I won’t count it against them). We had seen Lo Guarracino along the cliffs during our walk to Fornillo Beach, so we decided to give it a try! It by far had the best views of the water and sunset during our trip, and it was actually super affordable too. Get the pizza of course!
As for snacks/breakfast, we liked La Zagara and Collina Bakery. Italy definitely loves their Nutella, make sure you try it in a croissant and grab a cappuccino while you’re at it.
OVERALL…
I truly loved Positano, and it is worth the hype in my opinion. I was worried it wouldn’t live up to my expectations since I’ve dreamed of going for sooo long, but honestly it exceeded them and I ALREADY want to go back! The Amalfi Coast of Italy will definitely always have a special place in my heart and I hope to return soon. I hope this blog has proved itself useful for planning your trip, or has convinced you to START planning one! I also hope that I did a decent job of proving that Positano can be affordable if you do your research, and I plan on writing another post soon with helpful tips & everything you need to know before visiting.
Also keep an eye out for my next blog post! I’ll be covering the two days we spent in Rome. Next time I’m in Italy, I have my sights set on Venice & Cinque Terre! Orrrrr…I may just end up in the Amalfi Coast again! I’d love to see more of the other towns, such as Praiano and Ravello. I’d also love to plan a few days in Capri next time as well! As always, thank you so much for reading! Ciao!
And of course, thank you to my amazing mother who is ALWAYS so go-with-the-flow when it comes to our adventures. I love going on trips with you & can’t wait for our next one! You pick the place and I’ll make the plan!